Indigenous chefs connect through kai at WIPCE

Source: Radio New Zealand

A collective of indigenous chefs are using WIPCE as a springboard for cultural connection through kai.

The group includes Māori chefs Kārena and Kasey Bird, Joe McLeod and Kia Kanuta, as well as Hawaiian Kealoha Domingo, Native American Crystal Wahpepah and Samoan Henry Onesemo.

Nearly 4000 delegates from indigenous nations around the world have descended on Auckland for the education conference held once every three years.

Chef Joe McLeod told RNZ the idea to collaborate was born at a food festival in Hawai’i where the Hawaiian chefs suggested showcasing their kai together at WIPCE.

“So, it’s a partnership between New Zealand, Hawai’i, Canada, Australia, Samoa, Tonga… There’s only a handful of us for now, so we’re kick-starting this group to hopefully expand it out over time as we progress moving forward. But the whole purpose of the kaupapa is to show off the best of our cultural food. Our culinary cultural identity.”

The events the collective is running at WIPCE include an exclusive dinner where international chefs were paired with Māori chefs to create dishes like Kangaroo Laab, roasted turkey and Hapuka Hinu-kōhue.

The dinner was sold out but McLeod said in “typical Māori” fashion he added an extra four seats for his whānau.

It hasn’t all gone to plan as well with some of the suitcases not making it on to the plane, he said.

“So, it’s been a real dog’s breakfast of a nightmare trying to sort it out. So, I don’t think we’re going to get the food that’s part of their luggage that was supposed to come over yesterday with our guests coming over from Hawaii.”

McLeod said meeting for WIPCE was the first time the collective had all met each other, so he thanked the conference for kick starting the journey.

It’s just the start of the initiative and he is hopeful it will continue to grow.

“I’ve been in the industry almost 56 years, so this is not new to me, but to our young ones coming through, oh mate, it’s stunning to watch them get all excited like how I used to 50 years ago. But my role now is mainly kaumātua rangatira, leader, and someone who can open a lot of doors for the next generation.”

McLeod said that is his gift to the next generation of Māori chefs, to open doors for them once they decide where their vision lies.

Hawaiian Chef Kealoha Domingo told RNZ it’s “been nothing short of amazing” to connect with the other chefs.

Domingo said he is fortunate to have fallen into the role of reconnecting indigenous people in Hawai’i with their traditional foods.

“It’s motivating me to continue the work and to connect with other people who are doing the same, to just build the bonds and build the strength and, you know, increase everything exponentially as the network grows.”

The Chefs also had the chance to visit Velskov native forest farm in the Waitākere Ranges, ostensibly to relax amongst the hustle of WIPCE but also a chance for the international chefs to forage for native plants.

Head of Tourism at Tātaki Auckland Unlimited Karen Thompson-Smith said Velskov is a fantastic new venture that allows tourists to learn a little bit more about kai Māori.

It’s fantastic to see indigenous chefs from around the world visit Auckland and be able to utilise local produce, she said.

“Auckland is a melting pot. We have so many different cultures that make up Auckland. So we’ve got this incredible, different cuisine that’s been built on the back of our indigenous people being the Māori people and how they prepare their food.

“There’s this real cross-pollination coming through. And what we’re seeing in our food scene here in Auckland is just this development of different food offerings.”

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– Published by EveningReport.nz and AsiaPacificReport.nz, see: MIL OSI in partnership with Radio New Zealand